Cosmetic Formulation,  Personal Care Products

Hand Wash Recipe

Doing some playing around today to make a hand wash that doesn’t leave my hands feeling dry.

The recipe I made up is as follows:

Water Phase

Water up to 100%
Glycerin 2%

Surfactant Mix 

6% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
9% Coco Betaine
3% Coco Glucoside

ASM as calculated here = 9.54%

Conditioning Ingredient 

1% Panthenol
0.5% Glyceryl Oleate

Finishing Touch

0.7% VLT Thickener + 5% of the water
1% Preservative
0.5% Fragrance
Citric Acid 20% solution – to adjust PH 5-5.5

I made the citric acid solution by mixing 80g water with 20g citric acid. Total mixture being 100g with citric acid being 20% of 100g.


  • Remove some of the water from the total required and save for mixing with the VLT Thickener
  • In your first beaker add the Glycerin and Panthenol to the remaining water
  • In a 2nd beaker mix the Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Coco Betaine – heat this and mix until the SCI has dissolved
  • In a 3rd beaker – mix the Coco Glucoside and Glyceryl Oleate and heat until the Glyceryl Oleate has melted
  • Heat the first beaker with the water mix to match the temperature of the 2nd & 3rd beaker – around 60oC
  • Mix the content of the 2nd and 3rd beaker to the 1st one, this is a bit tricky as you end up losing product that sticks to the beakers – I find it helps just to add some of the water mix to each beaker, mixing a bit and then combining everything
  • In a 4th beaker, mix the saved water with the VLT Thickener and mix under heating until it has melted
  • Add this to your first beaker
  • Keep mixing until the temperature drops to 40oC – then you can add the preservative and fragrance
  • Finally check the PH and adjust to 5-5.5 with the citric acid solution

You should have a clearish solution with medium viscosity


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